free wildflower seeds ohio MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIX
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free wildflower seeds ohio

free wildflower seeds ohio MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIX

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free wildflower seeds ohio MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIXMidwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~ Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season, therefore we have included spring, summer, and fall blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

Product Information

  • Application or Use: Ornamental, Lawn, Cover Crop, Erosion Control
  • Germination Time: 14 - 21 days, under optimal conditions
  • Growing Locations: Transition Zone & Cool Season
  • Height: 2 - 4 feet
  • Sunlight Requirements: 8+ hours, full sun for best results
  • Advantages: Perfectly blended for the Midwest U.S.
  • When to Plant: See Instructions Tab.

**This mix is Non-GMO**

This mix contains the following seed. *Mixture is subject to change depending on seed availability*

  • Lanceleaf Coreopsis
  • Purple Coneflower
  • Blue Flax
  • California Poppy
  • Clasping Coneflower
  • Plains Coreopsis
  • Calendula
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Rocket Larkspur
  • Mixed Colors Corn Poppy

This mix may vary depending on harvest and availability.


*Product packaging may appear different than what is pictured. ~~~

 Wildflower Planting Time Based on Region:

Southeast

  • Fall, Winter: Sowing wildflowers in Fall/Winter is the ideal time in the Southeast, with October 1 – December 31 being the best dates. The weather is ideal for starting seeds, and seedlings can grow and harden off before frost.
  • Spring: A good time to plant wildflowers, especially annual species that flower quickly. Plant after the last frost date when soil temperatures have warmed to around 55°F, typically occurring within a month or so after the final frost of winter; this ensures the seeds can germinate properly without being affected by cold weather.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Southwest

  • Fall: A good time to plant spring wildflowers in the desert Southwest. Fall's cooler temperatures and seasonal rains help seeds germinate. In the mountains, you can plant after spring frosts.
  • Winter: In areas that get snow, winter seeding can give seeds an advantage in the spring. 
  • Spring: A popular time to plant wildflowers in most states. You can plant after the last frost and when the soil temperature is at least 55°F. In warmer climates, you can plant at the end of the rainy season.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Northeast

  • Fall, Winter: The best time to plant wildflowers in the Northeast is in late fall, after the first frost but before heavy snow. This is known as dormant seeding and can take place from November to December. Cold temperatures and damp soil during the winter help wildflower seeds germinate. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring, after the ground has thawed and soil temperatures reach around 55-65°F. This is a popular time to plant wildflowers because it's typically rainier, which helps water seedlings. 
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Midwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Western

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Pacific Northwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: In cooler zones with higher elevation, you can plant wildflowers in late spring to early summer, after the risk of frost has passed. You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

More on wildflower mixtures and plantings:

Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types, provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward.

These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included Spring, Summer and Fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species.

Seed Quality:

Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95 to 99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70 to 95%. The total viable seed percent is the germination percent, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percent. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coats and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100.

Uses of Grasses:

Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. For most areas of the United States, we recommend using one of our native grass mixtures. For specific requirements, individual species may be preferred. Hard Fescue or Sheep Fescue work well in most areas of the United States. However, in the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses; Hard and Sheep Fescue will not thrive in these climates.

Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons rather than prompt stabilization of soil.

Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly.~~~

Plant at a rate of 40 to 44 lbs. per acre (1 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft.).

Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success.

When to Plant:

The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10 to 12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the Winter. Late Fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated in the spring.

In mild climates, plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will insure an early display of flowers the following Spring.

Site Preparation:

Proper site preparation is important for prompt germination of seed and healthy growth of seedlings. Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type and density of vegetation and other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken. Specific recommendations are given under the heading, Weed Control.

Seed Application:

Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of 1 or 2 parts sand to 1 part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2 to 3 times their thickness. Or drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, i.e., over one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm soil with a cultipacker. This maximizes seed-to-soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application.

Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier and fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and provide protection from erosion (mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid in even distribution). Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 pounds per acre. In general, hydroseeding or hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas.

Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5 to 10% of the mulching fiber; the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed-to-soil contact. Otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber.

It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Overcirculation may damage the seed.

Moisture:

All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4 to 6 weeks, then gradually reduce waterings. In non-irrigated situations, plant in the Spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall. After seedlings are established, watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate over-watered areas.

Fertilization:

Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers.

Weed Control:

Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases—as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program.

Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as RoundUp, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide.

In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with RoundUp. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface; most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with RoundUp. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3 to 4 weeks before planting seed. From our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings.

Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified.

Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed.

Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon, Ornamec, and Fusilade. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues.

What to Expect:

Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low cost alternative in large-scale, high maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings.

A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-to-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate since overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year, and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4 to 6 weeks after planting.

A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program.

Most of our wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year.

Sometimes it is desirable or even necessary to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season.

If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4 to 6 in., and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.

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E. K. Byham
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
An essential work in putting American history in perspective
Format: Hardcover
This is a great book. It is not a book for everyone, however. If you don't know the difference between the Pilgrims and the Puritans, and I don't mean just when they arrived, try something simpler. It is a fascinating read if you already have some knowledge. For example, had I not been familiar with Hudson River geography and history, I'm not sure I would have been able to follow Bailyn's account of New Netherland. Naturally, as in any history, the most interesting stories are those you haven't heard before. For me, that was the information about New Sweden; I even read that section first. What makes Bailyn's book great, however, is his ability to make one see material one already knows a great deal about in new ways. Although he never addressed this question per se, he helped me answer a question that has been on my mind for at least fifteen years, and on which I've done considerable research - why did the Puritans, who arrived in 1630 as staunch Presbyterians, deriding their Separatist/Congregationalist Pilgrim neighbors, declare themselves Congregationalists in 1648 in the Cambridge Platform? (In part, the answer Bailyn helped me surmise is simply that when two or three Puritans gathered together, they had at least four different theological positions. It was hard enough to reconcile them in a single congregation; a presbytery would have been impossible.) The book also caused me to reassess my whole viewpoint on early Connecticut, and I certainly came to appreciate the importance of John Winthrop, Jr. beyond his role there. It is amazing too that Bailyn covers such a wide range of issues while devoting relatively few pages to each. The review in The New York Times Book Review, at least as I recall it, was wrong. While that reviewer praised the Virginia, Maryland and New Sweden/New Netherland portions, the New England portion (about 40% of the book) was dismissed as being only of interest to genealogists. While it is true that the earlier sections were more reflective of the book's subtitle, "The Conflict of Civilizations," the New England section would be of interest to a rather small portion of the genealogical community. (For example, I learned nothing new about my only ancestor discussed in the book, William Vassall.) I doubt if that reviewer has ever seen an on-line genealogy, which frequently contain claims such as that so and so was born in 1585 in the United States. As I have already said, the New England section, like the rest of the book, does a marvelous job of putting information in perspective; something that anyone interested in history needs to do.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 10, 2013
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LPThomas
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 4
Interesting and important book
Format: Hardcover
This book looks at the motivations and demographics of the first wave of English immigrants to flee to what was to become the USA. Interestingly written, it explores the educations, positions of and the relationships of the earliest settlers to our east coast. I read it while researching our Family Tree and finding the people connected before coming, and for generations after. The endless Indian wars were a revelation, as was the tale of the oppressed becoming the oppressors as Quaker families fled Massachusetts for New Netherlands.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 9, 2013
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RobCargill
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
The Barbarous Years: The Peopling of British North America: The Conflict of... Bernard Bailyn
Format: Hardcover
A remarkable book!!! I have never read such a comprehensive book on early United States history that contained so much information I had never read before. How the status of "indentured servant" existed alongside the origins of slavery in Virginia and Maryland (along the Chesapeake Bay) was both remarkable and horrible. That a white man (typically, landowner) could have a child with a (black) slave who would become a free person at adulthood (earliest laws) created problems (they needed the "help"), so this law of the 1650s-1660s was changed! And if a white (free) woman had a child with a (black) slave, the resulting child would remain a slave! Matrilineal or patrilineal human rights, that is the question. Indentured servant, but with no expiration date. I had never before read how people in this country were real "pioneers" in the creation of slavery - at least with slavery of humans captured from the continent of Africa! It seems that whatever voices of "Christian" decency there might have been at the time - church based values or ones simply based in the hearts of people living here - they were drowned out by commercial interests or those who simply couldn't be bothered by such concerns. I hope you read this book and recommend it to your friends! Sincerely, Bob Cargill, Minneapolis
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Reviewed in the United States on April 19, 2013
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Whiting, US
★★★★★ 3
A decent primer -- no more.
Format: Hardcover
This is an odd book for one of America's premier historians. It isn't a bad book -- a person of Bailyn's erudition couldn't write a bad book -- but it doesn't hang together well. The author does not really have anything new to say and a historian of the Early Colonial Period will quickly recognize the usual sources. It is hard to see exactly what historiographical niche this book fills. Even the title is misleading. Sure, Jamestown was barbarous enough by our standards and New Amsterdam was plenty harsh. But, the Bay Colony was, by the rough-and-ready standards of 17th century Europe, pretty civilized. (Compare it with the contemporaneous English Civil War or the Thirty Years War.) As for "Conflict of Civilizations," there was certainly enough of that but the most interesting part of the book, the last third or so on the Bay Colony, is largely an account of Puritan theological quarrels. In fact, one senses that Bailyn felt like he was "home" when he wrote about the Bay Colony. He has, after all, written about New England since 1955 ("Merchants.") He gives the reader a clear account of the theological duels between Winthrop, Cotton, Hooker, Williams, Hutchinson and others. But, others have done this as well or better. Bailyn all but ties himself in a knot to be politically correct toward the Native Americans. For every Indian atrocity he finds a matching atrocity in European civilization. Still, if captured in war one was likely to be a lot better off among the English, French or Dutch than the Pequods. A LOT better off! This volume is part of a series that explores the settling of North America and hardly anyone is better equipped for this than the author. But, what begins as a good account of the horrors of Jamestown drifts into a twice-told tale of the niceties of Puritan disputation. It is almost as if Bailyn got bored half-way through and started channeling Perry Miller. A good book in its way and quite useful for an upper division course or first-year graduate seminar. But, not well-written enough to snare the casual reader and not original enough to snare the professional historian. An odd number.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 19, 2013
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Goldry Bluzco
Lexington, US
★★★★★ 5
Sheds Light On A Dimly Perceived Period
Format: Kindle
This book is clearly intended for those of us (non-historians) curious about what is a dimly perceived period of North American colonial history. Living as I do in Tidewater Virginia, I consider myself fairly well versed with the earliest years of English settlement or invasion, depending on your point of view. But, I was wrong. I had, of course, read about the wretched first two years of the Jamestown enterprise, but I had no idea just how ghastly the conditions of the first twenty years of the English colonial period were. Wave after wave of newcomers simply starved or died of disease in those years. The mortality rate was shocking. So many people were dying off that the local Indians did not even think it necessary to kill these newcomers (which proved a mistake, of course). And this was not just at Jamestown. For example, the author says that in any given year in one county 30 to 40% of the children under the age of eight were orphans. And the origins of many of these earliest colonists -- orphans dumped by local churches, beggars snatched off of urban streets, prisoners marched from gaol to waiting ships, many poor people literally kidnapped or tricked into emigrating -- was eye-opening. Talk about the refuse of British society. (As an aside, anyone whose humble immigrant ancestors came to Virginia in those years can forget about doing any genealogical research. You will never find the answers to your questions.) This does tend to be a bleak read. One of the things that jumped out at me was the sad, repetitive tale of European-Indian relations. It mattered not where one was. Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Amsterdam, New York, the pattern is always the same. Trade and early friendly relations were quickly undermined by misunderstandings, stupidity, devious tricks, alcohol, and land disputes that led to attack and counter attack and massacres on both sides. One of the things I did enjoy was the Indians' views of Christianity. Those mentioned by the author viewed it as little more than a strange dream. When the concept of a universal god was explained to them they laughed and called it a silly fable. I can only agree. My respect for their powers of reasoning and perspicacity rose immeasurably. Just who was the savage?
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Reviewed in the United States on July 30, 2013

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